The IWC Big Pilot Top Gun watch is water resistant to 60 meters and has a large AR coated sapphire crystal over the dial - that is slightly domed. Attached to the case is a black textile strap with a folding, tension locking deployant in titanium that looks really nice. I like that the excess strap is placed on the inside of your wrist. The strap is pretty nice, but I would also like to see the watch on the more traditional Big Pilot strap with the "aviator rivets." Overall the Top Gun version is a handsome and sizable addition to the Big Pilot family. There is nothing evolutionarily new about the watch as the movement is an existing part of the IWC collection, but it's a great new flavor of a Big Pilot for those who wanted a larger black ceramic version - and it is still handsome as hell.
Marvin made the right choice. It's a pleasant surprise opening a package and seeing that it honors the product it contains. Marvin sent the watch in a brown cardboard box that had the curious closure of plastic strapping like you'd use on a much heavier box or a lot of lumber. Overkill is a good thing. Inside, the display box was wrapped in white tissue.
While the watch is technically a GMT in the sense that one can only keep track of two time-zones at once, I am willing to consider it something of an in-between type complication between a normal GMT and a full world-timer. I offer two reasons. The first is that because it retains the world cities around the dial which still gives the feel of a world-timer. The second reason is that changing the time-zone is almost so effortless that it is no big deal to see what the time is in another city. In fact, given the way the complication works, I would even go so far as to say that it becomes a distinct pleasure to press the button at 2 o’clock in order to hear the click of the mechanism as the hour hand moves in conjunction with the city.
The periphery of the dial is the city ring which is changeable via one of the left-side crowns. It works with the half black and half white 24 hour ring. This allows you to know the time (and whether it is day or night) in each of the 24 timezones. It is a great complication to have for anyone, but especially nice when you are traveling. Having a ring-style world timer almost makes you no longer want a standard GMT watch. While GMT watches can be pretty, their functionality is inferior to that of world timers because you can track 24 versus 2 timezones. And by track I mean actually do it in a legible manner.
Tritium is a totally different type of lume that involves small, self-glowing tubes produced by Swiss MB Microtec H3. These tubes contain small, safe amounts of radioactive material and they come in various colors. While not as potentially bright as SuperLumiNova, tritium tubes don't need to be charged with light and will glow all night long. Tritium tubes tend to work for about 25 years until they need to be replaced.
The very first pocket watches, made in 16th century Europe, were transitional sized instruments that were a form of a miniature, or downsized, clock. Since clocks at this time were heavy, with weights providing the energy source, it took the mechanical genius of a German locksmith, Peter Henlein, in 1510, to design the complication of a spring driven source, which allowed and evolved into the miniaturization of the energy source…today known as the mainspring. As time marched on, the watchmakers (clock makers) of the time, kept refining their skill so that they were able to produce a timepiece that could actually be worn on the body, either on a chain around the neck, or fastened to the clothing: “16th Century Bling”. This device had an amazing mechanical complication: an “hour hand”. What an extraordinary device, this little apparatus could give you the time just by looking at the round dial with numbers and knowing that if the hour hand is between 3 and 4, it’s about 3:30!! You wouldn't need to be dependent on bells or guys yelling out the time anymore…. you controlled your own time destiny. The only drawback from today’s standards was that the watch was accurate to only within 10 to 30 minutes per day. So in retrospect, a minute hand would have been pointless.
"Over the past twenty-five years, we have watched Breitling transition from its ‘infancy’ to a horological superpower with a true cult following," Third generation President & CEO of Govberg Jewelers Danny Govberg said. "We are honored to celebrate the Breitling collector community with such an exceptional timepiece." For Govberg, this Breitling watch is "for the fans."
Key to the look of this Calatrava dial are the sharp dauphine hands. In 18k gold, they work pleasantly with the applied 18k gold hour markers and small minute indicators. A framed date window takes this watch into daily wear territory. No matter the case material, the dial of the ref. 5227 is a cream color lacquer.
Graham calls the new Chronofighter Prodive "the reference luxury diving watch." While I like the piece I think that is a bit of a lofty statement. I am pretty sure that other people referencing something makes an object a reference. Not "self-referencing" that you are a reference. It was a cute effort though.
Again, the Saxonia in platinum is an incredible wristwatch with a beautiful movement, and I would likely go out of my way to find excuses to wear it as often as possible if it were part of my personal collection. Ultimately, it is a piece of art, and if you can swallow the ,400 price tag, I’d highly recommend considering it as an alternative to the more common luxury brands.
Outriggers: Bead-blasted and anodised aluminium; black matte-anodised for black version Dimensions: 395mm wide x 475mm long x 165mm high; total weight: 2.97kg Acoustically-enhancing platform: white or black lacquered
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