There is really a ton of lume on this watch. SuperLumiNova is thickly coated, and actually even shaped. Very good darkness viewing in this watch. Plus, all the hands are very thick and properly sized allowing for fantastic legibility. The case also features a rotating diver's style bezel. Owners of this watch will appreciate the features adding both functionality and convenience.
The case is offered in either 18k rose or white gold and is 43.5mm wide. Going along with the sporty theme the watch case is satin finished - which is interesting actually. The dial has a mixture of finishes including perlage, sunburst, and Geneva stripes. There is a lot going on in the dial but I appreciate the easy to see hands and presence of lots of lume. This is a good example of decorate skeletonization where a movement is design from the ground up to be partially "open."
How much will it cost? The retail price in the US will be ,000. If you noticed it is not a limited edition - just like the HM4 was. MB&F will of course be limited by their production capacity which isn't enormous. As of now, the brand's release cycle will stagger a Legacy Machine with an Horological Machine. So next year expect to see the HM5, followed by the LM2 the year after that. This design dichotomy effectively forces Max Busser (and his friends) to have two heads. One pointed forward and one stuck in the past.
CROWN and BEZEL: One word: Precision. It's obvious that Benthic put a lot of thought into the crown design. When pulled out to its maximum position, it DOES NOT MOVE. There's a bit of resistance when turning the crown and pulling it out - I assume due to the seals and the close tolerances.
This year at SIHH the Ralph Lauren Slim Classique Square has been renamed the 867 and is solely a femme timepiece. In fact, a larger version of it was released for men. Imagine that. Basically, not even a year later the small watch movement fizzled out and died. Not just that, but 2012 is all about the bigger classic watch. I feel a bit vindicated, and the guys at GQ can enjoy their words with some beef heart tartare and candied white asparagus served on sheets of vegetable paper.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF THE RICHARD MILLE EXTRA FLAT AUTOMATIC RM 033
The case is 40mm wide and in 18k Rolex Everose pink gold (that is said not to fade). This reference 116515LN will come on a black alligator strap for now. As is Rolex's custom, I anticipate more models of this style coming out in the next few years, including models with a bracelet, Rolesor (two tone), and steel models. As you can see, the watch comes with both white and chocolate dials. There also seems to be the option of Arabic numeral hour markers or baton style hour markers. Hands on the dial are in matching pink gold.
A lot of people are disappointed by the lack of automatic time synchronization in the Eco-Drive Satellite Wave watch. I understand that. The idea that the watch, like your mobile phone would always ensure it is showing the right time, no matter where you are is an easy thing to lust for. It is coming, but we are just not there yet. The issue almost always boils down to power consumption. If you are OK with manually telling the watch to sync the time, then you should be OK with this piece.
They don't mention it, but the strap is tool-free quick release, 22mm lugs. Super convenient.
His watch is the simply named Hajime Asaoka Tourbillon and it is a very attractive timepiece. The design is actually more architectural and art deco than it is traditionally Japanese. Not that there is anything wrong with that, but aside from the name and "Tokyo Japan" label on the dial, there isn't much to let you know this is a fine Japanese instrument.
Back in January of 2011 I caught a glimpse of a early prototype version of a strange looking Hublot. The case was really big (by Hublot standards), and it has a sci-fi looking black and green dial. I also noticed a large closing cap over one of the crows, and a beefy stance that made me wonder if it was even a real watch. This later turned about to be the Hublot Oceanographic 4000m (4000 M) Diver watch, but I didn't learn that for a few more months. After some time reflecting on the piece, I now reflect on this 'Uber-blot' watch.
The other model, the GM1, contains a modified Swiss Valjoux 7750 automatic with the chronograph function removed. This leaves the subsidiary seconds dial and a day/date indicator. Only these limited edition Giovanna models have the black ceramic bezels. I really like the Giovanna logo on the dial, and the black and red color scheme work out very nicely. Straps are black alligator with white stitching.
My interest is more with Niemeyer however. I still think it is very interesting to see him wearing a futuristic Big Bang Aero Bang watch in tantalum with a dial in black accented with the yellow and green colors of the Brazilian flag. Jean-Claude Biver of Hublot is very open with the type of advertising and marketing that he is willing to experiment with. Most brands would probably not do this, but I applaud Hublot for doing so. I have a feeling Oscar never saw this coming. 30 years ago I am sure he would have been thrilled to get a limited edition watch in his honor. Today I am happy he is still alive. I think all very senior citizens should get cool looking futuristic watches. Timex, get some special modern versions of the Easy Reader out there OK?
He imagined a collection called the Titanic-DNA. A steampunkish watch that was said to contain parts from the Titanic. Some people were shocked by the idea, and others thought that it was "pretty cool." On more than one occasion I had to hear people speak of how horrified they were than someone would disgrace the memories of the people who lost their lives in the tragedy by making a watch with parts from the ship. Other people felt it was a pretty darn nice tribute to those lost souls. How you are personally going feel is subjective. For me, not being easily offended, I thought it was an interesting concept. My biggest question was always "exactly how much of the Titanic is in it?"
Helson also includes a very nice Zulu strap that's quite comfortable:
On the back of the watch is an engraving of the Titanic (as it would have looks on the ocean, not in the ocean). Look closely on the hull and you'll see the number of the watch in the limited edition. Most Titanic DNA pieces are limited to 2,012 pieces. In fact, all Romain Jerome watches are part of limited edition sets. This particular model in 18k red gold has the reference T.OXY3.2222.00.BB. Attached to the watch is a rubber strap with an RJ initial on it and a locking butterfly clasp in titanium and 18k red gold. It is one of those types that is made to look like a standard ardillon buckle, but is more complex that than when opened using pushers on the side of the buckle. I like the RJ logo cut into the titanium part of the clasp. I also think that the watch would look really nice on a black alligator or crocodile strap.
Lot 11: Corum, Golden Bridge
Wish Price: €55.000 to €70.000
Analysis: A little low. This watch has a bit of the Richard Mille look that has been popular of late. I expected this to go for a bit more.
The movement is really nice to look at and is made by Fabrique du Temps for Laurent Ferrier. Very classic in style with rich looking Geneva stripes and nice anglage. On the wrist the amazingly slick looking case is like a soft pebble in shape and is comfortable on the wrist attached to the alligator strap. And guess what? "Gallet" in French translates into "pebble." Imagine that. Watches like this make me think about sprinting away with it on my wrist. "That man's run off with my balance cock! Stop him" Price for the watch is close to 200,000 Swiss Francs, and there is a waiting list. Save up, and in a few years they will make you one. We can dream until then.